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Engine liter size vs horsepower vs torque……How does it all relate?

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3:48 pm
March 13, 2011


flygal6

Appleton, WI

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posts 80

Can any of you mechanical minded types out there explain the difference looking at a 3.0L, 3.5L and 4.0L engine size?  For instance in researching various 6 cyl TV a 4.0L engine has less horsepower than maybe a 3.5 or 3.7L engine?  How does the liter size, horsepower and torque relate to each other with regards to towing power?  Is it better to have higher HP or torque for towing power?  Am I right in the apparent relationship that as horsepower goes up, MPG goes down?

Can anyone shed some light on this whole issue and make it easier to understand?

I know my puny 220hp 3.0 V6 is one of the smaller ones and does ok out here in the relatively flat midwest, but wouldn't want to challenge it out west doing any kind of mountainous terrain.  So as my overall trailer or tow weight increases,  should I be looking for an engine that generates more torque or more horsepower?

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated Confused

Carol

2011 Starcraft AR-1, 15RB, Tow with 2007 Mitsuibishi Outlander 6cyl 4WD

11:23 pm
March 13, 2011


Mike Magee

near Tulsa OK

Member

posts 204

Post edited 4:38 pm – March 14, 2011 by Mike Magee


Carol, I'm no mechanic or expert but I'll try to relate my understanding of it.

Liter size… forget it.  Quite often the larger displacement engine has more horsepower, but not always.

Two engines of the same HP can have different amounts of torque, depending on things like the diameter of the cylinder bores and the length of the piston stroke, stuff like that.  HP is relevant, but the amount of torque being applied to the drive wheels is more important.  Note that I say the amount being applied.  I say that because you can in effect apply more torque by shifting to a lower gear.

Do not worry about "challenging your engine" in mountains.  Actually the bigger issue might be whether the transmission is being challenged too much… it depends on the design of the transmission, but the best thing a person can do for the benefit of the entire drive train is to downshift and to take the hill at a moderate speed.  Charging up the incline and trying to maintain full highway speed is very hard on the tranny; it will heat up beyond its normal operating temperature, and heat is your tranny's enemy.  An auxiliary transmission cooler is valuable protection, but it won't always save a person who abuses it by pushing it too hard.

Some folks go so far as to get a transmission temperature gauge installed, so they can watch the actual temp and know if they need to back off.  The Scangauge II is one device that displays this (and other) info for some vehicles; I'm not sure if it will interface with the Mitsubishi.

Remember that your trailer acts like a sail and the wind resistance builds exponentially as speed increases.  But by the same token if you drive the steep grade in 2nd gear at 35 mph, the wind resistance is quite low and you probably aren't straining things much differently than running 65 mph on the flat.  I towed up and down some very steep grades (as high as 14% IIRC) last summer in Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico; instead of the normal 4th gear (overdrive lockout) I would shift to 3rd or occasionally even 2nd and slow down.  I got through the hills without incident and since that trip my 270 HP V6 Highlander has still been towing my cargo trailer every day for work.  Don't worry about holding up other traffic, because if the grade is that steep there probably are too many curves to be going much faster anyway.

One more thing: you can run your transmission in the lower gear all day long if you want to (assuming you aren't exceeding 'redline' RPMs) and the only downside is the increased engine noise.  It is not the least bit harmful to the drive train… in fact it puts less strain on the components, not more.  For example, my Toyota could travel 60 mph in 3rd gear all day and I would not be harming it.  It would use a little more gas and sound louder, that's all.  So if you ever feel concern that you might be straining your vehicle, don't hesitate to downshift; your transmission will thank you.

I hope that helps.

2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB

11:26 pm
March 13, 2011


smilinjohn

Minnesota Prairie

Moderator

posts 380

Carol, ask the experts at http://www.forums.roadandtrack.com .  Yes, Road & Track Magazine's experts that test the cars, are available to answer general questions for those interested.

SmileJohn

2010 Sportsmen Classic 14RK; 2005 Ford F-150, 5.4L V8; "…..it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin

7:32 am
March 14, 2011


flygal6

Appleton, WI

Moderator

posts 80

Thanks Mike and John for both of your replys.  Little by little I keep learning more and more.  I like it.  Luckily I got the transmission cooler thing already, so that's a plus.  I will ck out that link too.

Carol

2011 Starcraft AR-1, 15RB, Tow with 2007 Mitsuibishi Outlander 6cyl 4WD

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