| User | Post |
|
2:38 pm
September 30, 2011
|
kayaknut
| | | |
| Member | posts 376 |
|
|
Post edited 12:03 am – January 14, 2012 by kayaknut
|
|
|
3:34 pm
September 30, 2011
|
Karsty
| | Niagara Falls, Ontario | |
| Member | posts 114 |
|
|
I agree with you that the drain plug is in the crazyiest place possible. I have to lift the mattress and move that before removing the wood cover to get access. This is a great mod and one that I will be looking into.
First thing that needs to be done right now is adding a hot water tank by-pass before the colder weather hits Niagara. For the life of me I have no idea why that wouldn't be standard equipment for trailers ordered to go to the frozen north.
Thanks for the great ideas Julie.
|
CURRENT: 2012 Winnebago ERA – FORMER: 2011 Toyota Sienna Limited – 2011 Spree Escape E14RBnn"If a hammer doesn't fix it … it must be an electrical problem."
|
|
|
6:41 pm
September 30, 2011
|
Chicoman
| | Guelph, ON, Canada | |
| Member | posts 9 |
|
|
Hi Karsty,
We live in Guelph, and I was planning on doing the bypass on the hot water tank too. Pretty tight space to get into for us on our Sportsmen Classic 200. Would love to see some pictures of how you did the bypass if possible.
Our maiden voyage is tomorrow for 1 night in Rockwood.
Take Care,
Brad
|
|
|
8:15 pm
September 30, 2011
|
Mike Magee
| | near Tulsa OK | |
| Member | posts 204 |
|
|
I had a hot water heater bypass installed this summer also.
Not sure I understand what this "pull up, push down" drain is. My trailer has drain valves on the hot and cold lines underneath the trailer. It's my impression that opening both valves will drain most of the water from both the fresh tank and the hot water heater. I could be wrong though. Look under your trailer near where the tank is… don't you have some valves there too?
|
2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB
|
|
|
4:37 am
October 1, 2011
|
kayaknut
| | | |
| Member | posts 376 |
|
|
Post edited 12:03 am – January 14, 2012 by kayaknut
|
|
|
7:35 am
October 1, 2011
|
pfidahospud
| | Post Falls, Idaho | |
| Member | posts 107 |
|
|
Very nice mod! Definitely something to add to my "to do" list. Also I'm in agreement with the blowing-out-the-lines method of winterizing. Just seems easier if one has easy access to a decent sized air compressor. My dad has done that for years with his trailer and never had any problems, so I think it's good enough for me 
Stephen
|
Tow-er: 2010 RAV4 3.5L 269 hp V6 with Tow Pkg ~ Tow-ee: 2011 Sportsmen Classic 14RB ~ Director: The wife
|
|
|
2:31 pm
October 3, 2011
|
Mike Magee
| | near Tulsa OK | |
| Member | posts 204 |
|
|
I am glad you posted this. I was wrong, the low point drains do not take care of the fresh tank! Now I know where the real drain valve is. Thank you.
|
2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB
|
|
|
2:52 pm
October 3, 2011
|
kayaknut
| | | |
| Member | posts 376 |
|
|
Post edited 12:03 am – January 14, 2012 by kayaknut
|
|
|
3:01 pm
October 3, 2011
|
Karsty
| | Niagara Falls, Ontario | |
| Member | posts 114 |
|
|
I have to say … this FORUM has been a lifesaver for me. I had no idea that there were any low point drains on the unit. I guess being a novice to the whole RV thing means I have a lot to learn. I will have to crawl under the trailer and see exactly what is under there.
I will have to think about getting it winterized pretty soon. The weather in Niagara is starting to cool down and we can get frost in October if Mother Nature is so inclined. It would not be unusul to see snow in late October … in fact more than once we've had a white Halloween.
I was hoping to go to Florida for a few months this year but circumstances have changed and I have to stay north this year … next year for sure though.
Thanks again to everyone for the great information and modifications.
Karsty
|
CURRENT: 2012 Winnebago ERA – FORMER: 2011 Toyota Sienna Limited – 2011 Spree Escape E14RBnn"If a hammer doesn't fix it … it must be an electrical problem."
|
|
Login
Forum
No Status Selected
Print this Post 
Topic RSS 
Search 