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Changing Out the A/C

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1:34 pm
April 12, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

We are thinking about upgrading our 5K BTU A/C for something a little larger.  Frigidaire, the maker of our current A/C makes an 8K BTU that's a little wider but I think may work with a little modification of the cabinet it sits in.  Anyone else do this?

The 5K BTU just doesn't keep up in the hot TX summers.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

5:32 pm
April 12, 2011


Mike Magee

near Tulsa OK

Member

posts 204

I'll be interested to see how this works out, fitting it into the cabinet.  I wouldn't mind the same upgrade.  The wiring is a snap, just plug it in!  Laugh

2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB

10:46 pm
April 13, 2011


smilinjohn

Minnesota Prairie

Moderator

posts 380

The 5k is marginal, at best, in our 14RK, so I'm interested, too.

SmileJohn

2010 Sportsmen Classic 14RK; 2005 Ford F-150, 5.4L V8; "…..it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin

8:24 pm
April 25, 2011


Sportsman Matt

Central MA

Moderator

posts 95

As long as it will fit physically it will work. Problem is that most AC units get larger physically as the get larger in capacity. Also you have to remember that your venting is out the side and the top, so if you modify the enclosure inside (make the opening larger) you need to make the exhaust side larger to prevent overheating of the high side of the AC.

I looked at mine and the only AC that looks close is one about 6500BTU cooling but the price is more than I want to spend, so I'll stick to the 5K unit I have for now.

8:42 pm
April 25, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

Matt is right – looks like it's going to be the 6500 once we got the old one out – which was a definite chore.  The A/C sits on a piece of sheet aluminum that is folded up on the sides to make a sort of drip pan.  The front of the aluminum was siliconed to the back of the cabinet rail. 

The only way to get the A/C out was to dismantle the cabinet.  And the cabinet is not screwed together – oh no, nothing that simple.  The bottom is 1/8″ luan that was stapled to the cabinet.  Removed that – no screws holding the cabinet face on – oh geez, how is it held together?  Turns out it has the wood staples that look like a cross between a staple and a biscuit holding the stiles.  We were able to bang them out from inside the cabinet right next to the A/C – remember we have the bottom off at this point.  Then pulled the bottom rail off – when we found the silicone.

The hole is framed out with what looks like maybe 2×3's.  Tomorrow's job will be to see if it's just framing or if the verticals are actually jack studs above the window.  If it's just framing we are in good shape and will only have to widen the hole less than 2″.  If they are studs, we will have to think it through a little more.

One thing I still haven't figured out is what we are going to do about the outside shroud.  The top vent is no issue, it's plenty wide enough.  But the side wall shroud pretty well just fit around the 5K unit.  Oh and they added an extra piece of expanded metal on the back of the A/C for protection – we will have to get some more cut.  We are talking about getting some aluminum stock and building a frame around the back of the A/C.  The plastic shroud was held on with about 18 hex head screws with butyl rubber tape as a gasket, then the edges caulked.  As long as we can protect the hole and the edge of the A/C while allowing for drainage (holes in the bottom), we should be good to go.

And just to add to the fun, I found 2 wasp nests on the top vent and grating – I'm not sure how we are going to be able to keep them out in the future – will have to climb the ladder and see how the top vent cover is configured – I know there is a gap between the cover and the edge of the trailer.

I thought to take some pictures tonight after we had everything dismantled.  I will try and post them tomorrow.  I also need to take some pictures of the dismantled cabinet before I forget how it all went together :o

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

8:54 pm
April 25, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

Oh and the unit that we are replacing it with is a 6500 BTU LG at Home Depot – $149.  The height is the same – it's about 2″ wider and 1.5″ deeper – which shouldn't be an issue since we have to custom make a new shroud around the outside anyway.  We also figured that the unit can stick out into the room up to 2″ further than the 5000 BTU before it interferes with the cabinet doors above the dinette.  So we have a little wiggle room on the depth.

Things to get to replace the A/C besides the A/C

A piece of sheet metal – Aluminum to put under the A/C and up the sides about 2″

Silicone to reseal the aluminum to the front face of the cabinet.

Wood screews and wood glue to reassemble the cabinet face minus the 2 filler stiles

Staples to re-attach the luan cabinet bottom

Expanded metal for a protective grate over the back fins of the A/C – with foam tape and what looks like TPO or something sticky to hold the grate.

Aluminum to build a frame/shroud around the outside to seal the hole edge and finish off the back of the A/C – if we can't find a plastic frame that's a little wider.

Some sort of screen to block the top vent so that we don't have wasps in the future.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

1:04 pm
April 27, 2011


FoCoNoCo

Member

posts 17

If I may make a suggestion – why not install a 9200btu roof mount A/C instead?  I know at least on the 19' and up, the roof vents are pre-wired for an A/C.  The 1500btu difference may not make much of an impact.  At least if you had the rooftop unit, you could do one of several things – use the factory 5k on not-quite-so-hot days, use the rooftop on hotter days (do not recommend using both at once due to startup amperage of two A/C's, though there are rooftop A/C's that draw a little over 10A running), simply use the rooftop A/C and keep the other one intact "just in case," or install a rooftop A/C, remove and block off the factory A/C unit, and make a storage compartment in the empty space.  I'm only suggesting this because I don't feel that the slight increase in BTU's will help tremendously, especially when camping in HOT weather.

1:46 pm
April 27, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

Because I don't want a roof A/C – DBF can't stand up straight in the trailer as it is, he's 6'6″  – it would be a real head knocker for him.  That was one reason we like the side mount A/C.  The 2010 was not set up for a roof A/C and I'm not sure the roof would support one as a result.  And because we already have the mod started.

And I camped last September in SE Texas – I know that the 5000 almost kept up, especially if we can get shady sites.  Yes, I would have preferred the 8K, but 6500 is about 28-30% increase in size over what we had.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

1:53 pm
April 27, 2011


Steve

San Antonio, TX

Moderator

posts 193

Didn't I read someplace here that someone said the stock AC worked in Texas heat. This was only because the vent fan they installed helped to suck out the hot air faster. After that the AC was able to keep the cabin cool. 

This is why I'm getting a Fantastic Vent 4000r installed. It's far less expensive and an easier mod than installing a bigger AC. That's not the only reason I'm getting it. The reversible 3 speeds also make it handy for other stuff.

http://haven106.blogspot.com

7:05 pm
April 27, 2011


mbanda

ARKANSAS

Member

posts 121

Maybe we just lucked out with extra insulation, but the stock AC has always kept us cool. Triple digit temps in a humid Florida last July forced us to leave it on full blast all day, but temps inside were nice & cool.

I will be waiting to see about the wasp prevention setup for your AC. They have been terrible here for a month & I am sure they have set up camp somewhere in the TT.

8:13 pm
April 27, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

Steve – you may have the right idea.  At least I'm finding out about the construction of our trailer.  And even though it's made with entry level materials instead of high-end, it's been put together really well.  It's taking a lot of effort to get everything apart but we are there and have started expanding the hole for the new unit.

Last year, the A/C just about kept up at night but not really during the day time, especially if our site wasn't shaded very well.  And since we are already hitting the 90s (93 today, I think it was a record), I want to be prepared for what will come.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

10:44 am
May 7, 2011


DaveandRose

Sarnia Ontario Canada

Member

posts 36

I decided to do some checking on the BTU of the air conditioner in our 2011 19sbt. We have a roof mounted coleman mach. I checked the web site linked below with our model number and found that our unit is an coleman mach 3 plus 13,500 BTU. Weather is still to cold in Ontario to even consider a test but I will add to this post when the sun decides to get a little closer to Canada.

http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/p…..h3plus.php

Dave

2011 Sportsmen Classic 19 SBT. 2011 Ram 1500. Yes it has the hemi, no more towing issues for us. I wonder if Lewis and Clark had a Sportsmen classic and what they towed with.

12:06 pm
May 7, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

Wow a 13,500 – you may actually get frozen out with that much!

Progress has been slow because I'm finishing up a term in school – going to graduate school and have only had an hour here and there to work on the trailer.  We've got the framework pretty well figured out and have test-fit the A/C – we had to do some modifications on the hole in the side of the trailer.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

12:15 pm
May 24, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

Finally got the A/C cabinet constructed and all put together only to find water running out of the front of the A/C instead of the rear.  We have shimmed up the rest and are going to to do some surgery on the drain hole in the rear – make it a little lower and see if that helps.  Some silicone may also be involved.

One thing about it – the extra 1500 BTUs really help.

  

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

1:50 pm
May 24, 2011


Steve

San Antonio, TX

Moderator

posts 193

I like! Can't wait to see the pics of the other side.

http://haven106.blogspot.com

9:17 pm
May 24, 2011


sandersmr

Texas

Member

posts 338

Once we get the water going where it's supposed to go (outside not inside), we will be working on the outside frame using aluminum stock and expanded metal mesh to protect the outside fins.

And of course, tonight as I'm sitting in the trailer with the A/C on waiting for it to generate water so I can see where it's leaking – no leaks!  But since I did have water last night, I'm not trusting it.

2010 16BH towed by 2002 F-150 Super Crew 4.6L V8

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