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Where is by-pass to water heater?

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2:03 pm
May 10, 2011


meadows51

New Member

posts 2

Just purchased Spree Escape 14rb and trying to sanatize tanks and system. Cannot locate by-pass valve to stop water getting into water heater. Does anybody know where it is??

3:43 pm
May 10, 2011


kayaknut

Member

posts 373

Post edited 2:06 am – January 14, 2012 by kayaknut


2:38 pm
May 11, 2011


Karsty

Niagara Falls, Ontario

Member

posts 114

I have the 2011 Spree Escape E14RB as well. Not aware of a HW tank by-pass. I am going into the dealer tomorrow morning for some options to be installed and will ask about it and report back here.

Karsty

CURRENT: 2012 Winnebago ERA – FORMER: 2011 Toyota Sienna Limited – 2011 Spree Escape E14RBnn"If a hammer doesn't fix it … it must be an electrical problem."

6:27 pm
May 11, 2011


AJ

Milton, VT

Member

posts 10

When I picked up my 19SBT the dealer did a very thorough walk-through of the trailer with me, expalining all the features and demonstrating that they were in working order.  When looking at the water heater, he explained that it did not have a bypass, but that it could be done very simply by disconnecting the water input and output lines and connecting them together with an appropriate coupler.  I have not attempted to do this, but it seems simple enough and I plan to do it in the fall when I winterize the trailer.

2011 Sportsmen Classic 19SBT with rear tent option : 2010 Toyota Sienna

9:20 pm
May 11, 2011


Sportsman Matt

Central MA

Moderator

posts 95

Post edited 4:25 am – May 12, 2011 by Sportsman Matt


From the factory they do not install a bypass. As far as sanitizing, you need to keep the hot water lines closed off and then pressurize the system, if the hot Water Tank is empty, it will trap air in the system and prevent the solution form getting into the hot water lines. Downfall is that you can't sanitize the hot water side of the system. Also any air leaks in the hot water system (cracked faucets) will only allow the air to escape and let the solution fill up in the hot water tank (which is what you don't want)

Below I have listed the options for winterizing with and without the bypass, maybe this will help with the decision.

First is drain the freshwater system including the Hot Water Tank using compressed air, then put the drain for the hot water heater back in and pressurize the system with air and blow out the hot water lines. Then add RV Antifreeze to the cold water side only, and then blow it all out again.

Second is install a hot water heater bypass. To do this you will need a hot Water bypass kit,  and Teflon Tape. When I did mine, I opted to replace the plastic couplings from the bypass kit with solid brass couplings, the plastic tend to deteriorate over time with the heat from the tank (translate this into lwater leaks)

Now you can install it yourself, with 2 large adjustable wrenches, or have a dealer install it for you. I would stress unless you have worked with plumbing and pipe threads before, have the dealer install it for you. takes about 1/2 hour to an hour to install and test, but well worth it.

Good luck

5:18 am
May 12, 2011


Karsty

Niagara Falls, Ontario

Member

posts 114

Sportsman Matt said:

First is drain the freshwater system including the Hot Water Tank using compressed air, 

Good luck


It some cases you are talking to complete novice when it comes to the whole trailer experience. Guess you have to start somewhere. Right?

You lost me at, "using compressed air". So just WHERE do you use the compresses air? I am assuming that there are places on the Internet that explain the procedure … or better yet take it to someone that can do it for you.

Fortunately I have a brother-in-law that can show me.

Why would you not want to sanitize the HW tank in the first place??

Signed: "Don't have a clue." Embarassed

CURRENT: 2012 Winnebago ERA – FORMER: 2011 Toyota Sienna Limited – 2011 Spree Escape E14RBnn"If a hammer doesn't fix it … it must be an electrical problem."

11:12 am
May 12, 2011


Sportsman Matt

Central MA

Moderator

posts 95

Post edited 6:16 pm – May 12, 2011 by Sportsman Matt


Not a problem Kartsy,


First the hot water tank is aluminum with an anode rod, which deteriorates with certain minerals and chemicals in the water. So often the Hot Water tank is bypassed when cleaning the water system, with the exception of contaminated water, which everything must be cleansed. Downfall to cleaning the Hot Water heater when doing a system cleaning is you must use an extra 6 gallons of treated water to fill the hot water tank. most people fill the tank and let the tank boil the water to cleanse it out (this is a whole different topic all together)


When you open the outside cover to the Hot Water Heater, you will see a rusty steel plug. that's the drain to the Hot Water Heater, requires a 1 1/6″ or 1 1/8″ socket on an extension and a breaker bar or ratchet wrench to remove.


As for compressed air, you would use an adapter that connects the air line from your compressor to the city water fill of the trailer.

Words of caution.

1) Open faucets to relieve pressure from water system before removing hot water heater plug.

2) Close all faucets before applying air pressure to system.

3) Stand clear of Hot Water heater drain when applying air pressure or you will get soaked.

4) Do not apply more than 60 PSI to the water system or else you risk rupturing a line or breaking a fitting.


Biggest thing is look at the Winterizing thread pinned to the top of this forum, this will give you an idea of what to look for.


I'll be posting pictures of how to winterize this fall (September)


1:44 pm
May 12, 2011


Karsty

Niagara Falls, Ontario

Member

posts 114

Thanks so much Matt.

So much to learn. I'm sure it will all be clear as mud in time. Your explanation was very clear and much appreciated. Heck … originally I didn't even know how the heck the HW tank even got filled, let alone empty it! LOL

I have to repeat myself here. Some much valuable information on this FORUM and I certainly appreciate you all sharing your knowledge, experience and expertise.

Karsty

CURRENT: 2012 Winnebago ERA – FORMER: 2011 Toyota Sienna Limited – 2011 Spree Escape E14RBnn"If a hammer doesn't fix it … it must be an electrical problem."

2:48 pm
May 12, 2011


Mike Magee

near Tulsa OK

Member

posts 204

Yeah, I forgot one time (different trailer) to open a faucet before taking out the anode rod.  BOOM!  That rod flew about 20 feet.  Fortunately I only got wet. 

2008 Toyota Highlander – 2011 Escape E14RB

2:10 pm
May 13, 2011


Karsty

Niagara Falls, Ontario

Member

posts 114

I just came across a couple of pages that might enlighten the beginners like myself on the hot water tank basics and care and maintenance. It even has pictures which makes it easier  to read. LOL Surprised

http://rvbasics.com/techtips/r…..asics.html


http://rvbasics.com/techtips/R…..-care.html

 I’m sure that the site may offer some additional information for the novice users as well.

 Karsty

CURRENT: 2012 Winnebago ERA – FORMER: 2011 Toyota Sienna Limited – 2011 Spree Escape E14RBnn"If a hammer doesn't fix it … it must be an electrical problem."

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