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Hello All,

   I know to some tires are boring but none the less an extremely important item on your RV. (Or any other vehicle for that matter.) So here is an upgrade I made recently…

    Althought the tires were not bad on my 2010 14RB, having taken 2 cross country trips I felt they could be replaced. It was then that I really paid attention to the load range of the factory installed tires. The trailer came w/ load range C radials tires 175/80R13, that allows for 1360lbs. per tire. Or 2720lbs. total. And also has 6 plys. Now, I have weighed my trailer loaded and ready to go at 2500lbs. That seemed too close to the max weight limit. And there's not enough room in the wheel well to put on a 14″ tire. After researching , I found a Kenda Karrier load range D, 8 ply radials online for $62.20 ea. w/ $25 ship. Those tires will increase the max load up to 1610lbs. per tire or 3220lbs. total. (Yippee!) After they were installed, I noticed that the "sagging" appearance was gone too, compared to the other tires. Higher inflation max too at 65PSI. 

   Here's something else to consider when buying tires, any tire, car, RV or whatever…Tires are imprinted w/ a date code. By law, it is located in an oval mark on the side. It is usually proceeded by the letters DOT and will consist of 4 digits. For ex. DOT 1211, that means these tires were MADE in the 12 week of 2011, or approx. March, 2011. The experts I consulted suggested never putting a tire on that is date coded older then a year. Rubber dry rots etc. When I bought the new tires I called and asked what the date code was on the specific tires they would be shipping.

   Hope you weren't too bored! Keep on rollin'…

About 15 months ago, I had the axle flipped on my 16BH.  Have been pleased with the decision.  Seems to pull just as good and it sits higher to empty tanks, etc.  No problem here.  Cat, I read with interest your blog on the tires.  We are taking a long trip out west next summer and will be replacing our tires probably in June.  Your information on the tires was super and I will be upgrading them.  Now, I have a question for you or anyone else out there…………..I have 13″ rims/tires now as we all probably do.  But, since I have flipped my axle, I have tons of room for 14″rims/tires.  What are the pros/cons of making that switch to bigger rims vs. staying with the factory rims.

I am with sandersmr, Where did you get them?

Jack

I bought the over/under conversion KIT-2.38  (K71-384-00)  for $34.10 From:

Dexter Axle

500 S. 7th St.

Albion, In 46701

Phone 260-636-2195

I called KZ @ 1-866-472-5640 to be certain that I order the correct one because the diameter of our axle is most important.  We need a kit for 2 2/3″ tube.  It is always a good idea to give KZ a call, tell them which unit you have, just to confirm the correct kit to purchase.  Your choice is either for the 2 2/8″ tube, (mine) or the larger 3″ tube.  I also called Dexter and ordered the conversion kit.  They were also very helpful in directing me to the proper kit.

I had a local garage who I use regularly install it.  He said it was easy to install and charged me $175.00 to do it.  Again, I have heard both the pros and cons on this blog, but if I had it to do over again, I would not hesitate.  The unit handles very well when traveling.  Also, thanks so much for the info on the tires.  They look like they will improve handling and safety!

Jack

Thanks guys for sharing the information. 

I too am concerned about the load range of the stock tires since I have also weighed my TT and found it to be 2550 lbs when loaded.  Plus with all the appliances on one side I'm sure that side has more than %50 of the weight.  The "sag" is more noticable on that side.

I have the over/under axle conversion kit but haven't had it installed yet.  I drag my 16bh every time I pull out of the driveway. I was considering 14″ tires but am not too keen on buying 3 tires and wheels so it's good to know I have the option to upgrade just the tires.